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Archive for June, 2007

Apple Crumble

Saturday, June 30th, 2007

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It’s too cold here for comfort. Unless food is the comfort. How about my grandmother’s apple crumble recipes, as a way to warm up a bit? This is from her fifties’ notebook. When I was a child we used to have it hot with custard. Mm. Feeling warmer already.

Apple crumble

2 lbs cooking apples
3 tablespoons golden syrup
3 tablespoons of minced ginger
1 small cup SR flour
½ cup brown sugar
3 tablespoon butter
Vanilla

Stew apples in little water & golden syrup & ginger. When apples are soft, pour into buttered pie dish to cool. Rub flour, sugar & butter till they look like breadcrumbs. Put on top of apples & sprinkle with coconut.

Bake 25 minutes.

PS Yes, the picture is from my shopping list again. I’m finding it very handy to use my blog to help me remember things and I rather like it that I say one dish and have a picture of of something entirely different. Everyone else has pictures that are exact and appropriate, after all.

Rural Indian Cooking

Friday, June 29th, 2007

More foodways! This one shows you the contexts - we are even introduced to the family’s TV set.

More time to consider choices

Thursday, June 28th, 2007

Since all your recipe choices from the Gas Cookery Book are different, I’ll leave making a choice until next week, when I’m hopeful that a pattern may arise.

While you’re thinking about your favourite Hong Kong fusion recipes, you might want to start thinking about your family food history and the recipes that go with it. Suz’s Place (about which more next week) has kindly donated prizes for the three best tale/recipe combinations submitted before 31 July and we have an outstanding panel of judges and the whole month of July to play with. I’ll blog the entries so we all get to enjoy cool stories and even cooler recipes. The stories don’t have to be serious, but the recipes have to be real recipes and the stories have to make them come to life for the rest of us so that we get a feeling of your family’s foodways. Start thinking - and, as I said - I’ll make a proper announcement (with details and pictures and links and things) next week.

Troubled by choices

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

I have an exciting new book.

I dined with friends on goat casserole and mashed potatoes and deep fried artichoke and salad and garlic bread and was sipping a glass of wine when my friends produced a book they had bought as a curiosity. And I got to take it home!

It’s a classic of its kind. Alas, I can’t find you a picture of the cover, because it’s a classic of its kind too: dishes from many nations served as a Chinese banquet. The title of the Gas Cookery Book sounds dull, but the book itself is testament to a cuisine that’s fading fast.

It was published by the Hong Kong & China Gas Co. Ltd. and is rather more substantial than most books published by firms for celebratory or advertorial purposes. By ‘more substantial’, I mean it’s a hardback of 395 pages, with a fabbo spreadsheet containing herbs and spices at the back. The spreadsheet contains 23 herbs and spices and lists the dishes you can use them with, in both Chinese and English. One day I might do a similar spreadsheet for my own herbs and spices - the way it’s configured makes it very easy to dream up a menu using available seasoning.

There are colour pictures and black and white pictures and recipes and descriptions of cuisines and Chinese translations of the English (or is that English translations of the Chinese?). The recipes cover the cuisines of sixteen countries chapter by chapter. The English is occasionally fascinating and the recipes are often adapted just a little to Hong Kong tastebuds. This is done carefully, mostly through adding MSG and commercial sauces. It makes a good refererence for 1960s culinary history on so many levels, in fact. My copy is the fourth edition, November 1963.

I particularly love the way the book hones in on one characteristic for each cuisine:

Austria and Hungary…. home of the goulash
China … infinite variety
France - home of the cooking art
Germany - good food and heart appetites
Great Britain for some of the best family cooking
India - the home of curries and highly spiced foods
Indonesia - simple food with a spice
Italy, mother of continental cookery
Japan. Pleasing to the eye as well as the palate.
Korea for oriental variation.
Portugal- where the food is rich and tasty.
Russia: home of contrasting yet pleasing dishes.
Scandinavia - for satisfying dishes.
Spain. Piquant flavours.
United States of America - noted for variation in the realm of food.

The punctuation is mine. The titles belong to the Gas Cookery Book.

I need to give you a recipe from this amazing tome, but I can’t decide. Help me out here. Do you want to explore the variation of the US food or the pleasing nature of Japanese food? Is infinite variety more important to you than goulash?

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memes and me

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

Once upon a time, two blogfriends tagged me. There was Dave at You Tube Digger, who wanted me to give five reasons why I loved blogging, and there was Catslyn at SCA Life, who wanted me to tell you seven unusual things about myself. I couldn’t get to them until now and I’m doing them both at once because my life is rather hectic this June. My hectic life is all good stuff, with lots of food encounters of the curious kind. It’s just busy. Anyhow, here are my answers to the questions - and I’m going to ask people to please tag themselves, since I can’t choose who to tag and answer the questions (yes, at this moment I lack faith in multiskilling - I burned soup yesterday and haven’t been the same since).

First, five reasons why I love blogging:

1. I get to meet the most interesting people. I don’t just mean online. Every now and again I have lunch or dinner or coffee with someone I’ve met in blogland and we discover that the friendship isn’t just the blog and the comments in answer.

2. I get to say the most embarrassing things, then discover that some of them aren’t nearly as embarassing as I thought (mind you, other things are worse than I thought).

3. I can share my love of history. I don’t really need to explain this one, do I?

4. I can share my love of food. If I didn’t really need to explain my love of history then I certainly shouldn’t need to explain my love of food. Note how pictures of me don’t generally show my waistline.

5. I can experiment with ideas and with writing. I can think half-finished thoughts and go back to them later and develop them in posts down the track. The comments I get help me grow and think and learn. For me, blogging (and life) is all about learning and friends.

Seven unusual things about myself

It’s very hard to find unusual things about oneself. I’m the centre of my own life and I feel perfectly normal. Two different groups of friends reassured me today that I’m not normal at all and that this is a good thing. This doesn’t help me work out what’s unusual, so there’s a fair bit of guesswork in this list. If anyone wants to help out in the comments, feel free.

1. I have a big head. I mean this quite literally - I wear large hats. I also have a long torso for my height, which is very handy in cinemas.

2. From the moment I could crawl I was in the kitchen banging saucepan lids together. I think Mum taught us to cook very early simply to stop us banging those lids. They made such a satisfying sound!

3. I knew I wanted to study history and write fiction from when I was very small. Alas, I am a slow developer and I didn’t take myself seriously until my mid to late thirties.

4. I am one of the founders of Women’s History Month in Australia.

5. I am one inch too short to reach the top shelf in most libraries. All the best books seem to be kept on the top shelves in those libraries, too.

6. When I was little, my sisters and I called my mother our “Maxi-Mum.” When we grew up, she became our “Mini-Mum.”

7. I have a disarticulated skull called Perceval on one of my bookshelves.

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Burger King

Monday, June 25th, 2007

Historical evidence is sometimes … odd:

Preserving cookbooks

Monday, June 25th, 2007

Todays’ website describes the cookbooks we are about to lose (as opposed to the innumerable ones that are already lost) and a particular program that intends to save them.

Most of the work of culinary history is done very quietly - take a moment and admire this particular labour. Without this program some cookbooks would be gone and all their lore and foodways would be lost to the future.

Elizabeth Chadwick dreams of food

Sunday, June 24th, 2007

Elizabeth Chadwick has written a really good post on the food in the Medieval life of William Marshall. Heroes, food, good writing, dreams of the Middle Ages: what more could you ask for?

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Food history excursion

Sunday, June 24th, 2007

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Today some of my food history class met for a final expedition into the world of foods past.

We started at a local farmer’s market, where we explored winter produce. It was more late autumn produce than winter, despite the weather. Lots of organic lamb and beef, vast arrays of potatoes in all shapes and colours, lots of pumpkins and swedes and tomatoes and the last of the quinces. We all talked about what we would cook that night and next week and did some shopping, which was the best possible way of reinforcing everyone’s understanding of the effect of seasonality on eating habits.

After lunch we reconvened in Pialligo. Jonathan Banks of Pialligo Apples took us round his orchard.

Because some of the older apple varieties (including five crown and quarenden) had been stressed, green apples were growing out of season. Alas, the frosts were going to get them any night. Some were already being dissolved into refuse on the ground. I ended up with most of the fresh-picked apples to try to make verjuice (I’m still not sure how this happened, but I’m pleased as punch) and my students were almost terrifyingly enthusiastic about stripping the trees bare. We also stripped one medlar tree bare of its last crop (all seven fruit). All in all, less than a kilo of fruit, but rather strange pickings in June. Also cool to see that medlars grow on the tip of the branch (like quinces).

The apples were all in straight rows and had their own character. We were introduced to each tree and given its history. After the neat rows of apples, we went to the ‘wild orchard.’ Lots of self-sown stuff around the once-carefully-planted, from cleavers and hemlock and tansy through to Russian garlic and a tangled range of fruit trees. This would be an amazing place to walk through in Spring.

In the wild orchard we learned how apples and plums deal with each other (or not) and found out about morello cherries. The garden was unpredictable and profuse underfoot and we felt like children going over that and under this. Every now and again we would stop and there would be another feature to admire or another bit of plant history to learn. It was a fascinating study in how a disused nursery can be turned into a wild orchard (producing commericlally viable amounts of fruit) can turn into a moment showing what plants were Australia’s favourites in a place and at a time.

We emerged from the wild orcahrd and Jonathan turned to us and asked if we liked artichokes. Of course we did. I instantly started dreaming of artichoke soup. How much did we like artichokes, he wondered. It turned out we liked artichokes 2 kilograms worth, so he dug them up and my students lovingly extracted worms and shook them free of soil. We put them all in the produce bag and decided to sort out payment and who got how many later.

From artichokes we went to Russian garlic. It isn’t in season yet, but I happened to mention that you can use it half grown. And so we all have Russian garlic for slicing and eating. Very fresh, very fragrant. None of us will ever confuse Russian garlic for any other variety, either.

After the Russian garlic, it was a cup of tea in the garden near the studio, where talk ranged from cookbooks to feijoas to various other plants and their historical antecedents to home made liqueurs to wild-harvesting. Then we adjourned for a honey tasting. The honey from these orchards is particularly wonderful, very floral and gentle. We all bought some, and paid for our artichokes and garlic. The cleavers and the green apples were somehow just included in with the rest and I keep looking at them and thinking how lucky I am to teach subjects like this. I bet I don’t feel so lucky when I try to make the verjuice. That verjuice is going to be hard work without the right device.

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Koldskaal

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

Today’s video is a Danish dessert recipe.

Dennis the Menace

Thursday, June 21st, 2007

I thought overnight about the food in Dennis the Menace and suspect that there will be a third post, one day, where I contemplate and draw conclusions. There might even be a fourth post, contianing recipes, if anyone evinces an interest.

This post is simply going to list and describe the food in the 1951 cartoons of young Dennis. If I add much in the way of commentary, the post will be too long for its own good, and none of you will ever speak to me again. And this would be a great pity, because I’m going to hold my very first competition in the very near future.

The Dennis cartoons are numbered, which makes this very easy to write up. I was going to give a great narrative, but then I asked myself “Why?” - this means you’re saved from an essay.

2. The mother holds an empty cookie jar and Dennis explains with great intentness “… and the darn ants kept carrying them away, crumb by crumb, until they were all gone. That’s my opinion.”

8. Dennis leans nonchalantly at the checkout while his mother says to the shop assistant “Wait a minute…. I didn’t pick up any two pound sack of candy!”

17 Dennis is fuming at the dinner table, while his father says “You don’t hear ME complaining - and I’ve been eating here a year longer than you have!” On the table is bread, cups of coffee (Dennis has a glass of milk or juice or water), ketchup, side salads, mashed potato (?), possibly some sort of meat dish.

5-9 Father is yelling from the safety of bed “For the last time - EAT YOUR DINNER!” All I can speficially identify of the meal is that it includes a glass of something.

5-11 Finally, those glasses are identified! Dennis complains to his father over dinner “Why don’t you drink milk? You’re not so darn big and strong yourself!” On the table are cups of coffee, a sauce bottle, meat (either rolled or a ham?), and something in a bowl to be seved with a spoon (mashed potato?).

5-28 Dennis is investigating a picnic basket. The only readily identifiable comestible (try saying that in a hurry!) is coffee in a flask, but the caption reads “Your mother is calling you, little boy. No, don’t touch. Go find your mother, sonny. No. No! Listen, get your dirty hands out of our potato salad!!”

6-11 Dennis and his parents are visiting and Dennis enthusiastically reports to his mother “Boy, you should see their kitchen! There’s a big ham on the stove, and a hot cherry pie, and a dish of mashed potatoes, and a dish of peas, and a bowl of …”

6-15 Dinnertime again. Looks like a rolled meat. Dennis hold shis glass and looks very accusingly at his father. “Who says I need a quart a day? The guy that sells us milk?”

6-18 Dennis and father shopping. It’s hard to work out what they’ve bought, though there are oranges for sale out the front.

6-22 Dennis wants to join the adult party “I want to laugh! I want to sing!”. The adults appear to be eating canapes and drinking from tall glasses with ice. (It’s so tempting to fill in the line pictures with food I enjoy myself eg I just reminded myself that the canapes aren’t Australian and that the US in 1951 didn’t even know emu prosciutto existed. Emu prosciutto and figs together are food of the gods - but do not appear in any Dennis the Menace cartoon)

6-30 Dennis and friends under a hot dog umbrella “Boy, when he gets back and finds all those wet hot dogs!”

7-10 Dennis pokes through the door and asks his mother “Hey, Mom, is it okay if I ate that last piece of cake?”

8-9 Dennis has the fridge door open and is feeding the dog “Why not, Mom? He likes liver and I don’t.”

8-25 As his mother put a fresh-baked cake on the bench (it’s obvious it is just out of the oven and in a round tin of c 8-10 inches diameter - it’s not obvious what type of cake it is), Dennis says “This is my mother, Freddy. She’s the best cook in the whole world. Take cake, for instance…”

9-10 Dennis eats icecream from a van. Not really a van - more like a little stand on wheels, with a brolly.

9-11 Dennis makes a birthday speech. The only visible food is the cake, with icing, “Hapy Birthday” on the side, and five candles.

9-17 Dennis outside the ridge, enthusiastically aksing the closed door “Did the light go out, Larry?” On the floor are milk bottles, a lettuce, a half a cucumber, a bowl of eggs, 3 sticks of celery, cheese?, ham, eggs, 2 small cans and 2 small bottles, some shallots?, a covered bowl and another small bottle.

9-19 Dennis in the kitchen, telling his horrified mother “I made an upside down seven-layer chocolate lemon meringue pie.”

11-6 Dennis on a park bench, slingshot ready, asking his mother “Do you know how to cook a pigeon?”

11-14 Dennis’ mother asks during dinner “How did spinach get in the centrepiece?” Also on the table are a ham, coffee, bread and other less-identifable comestibles (Yep, you guessed it ‘comestible’ is my word of the day.)

11-15 Dennis standing on a pile of containers in the kitchen, reaching for cookies. He tells his mother “Don’t yell at me! I might fall and hurt myself!” He would definitely spill the tea and coffee on which he is so precariously balanced, and might knock over the flour on his way down.

11-21 Dennis is in the kitchen, making a mud cake. I don’t know if this counts, but at least he’s using the mixer. Children should learn to cook young, I always say :).

11-22 Dennis’ mother is peeling something over the sink and tehre is a pile of something dark on a board on the bench. A pot steams away madly on the stove. Dennis’ mother says “I don’t care what the pilgrims had. We’re having meatloaf.”

12-15 Dennis is shopping with his father and tells his friend “Big party tonight, Billy! Twenty-four cans of beer!” His father is focussed firmly on potato chips and entirely ignoring the canned fruit.

And that’s the lot! Food in 1951. If any of you have insights, I’d love to hear them. I’d especially love to find out what was on an archetypal US dinner table in 1951. I won’t return to this until July, so you’ve got plenty of time. I think I *will* do a 1951 US recipe post in July, though - again, let me know if there’s anything you really want to see in it.

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Dennis the Menace and archetypal US food

Wednesday, June 20th, 2007

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One thing that hits us all when we meet other people is that suddenly our foodways don’t seem as normal as we thought. We look for measurements of normal (I am talking wildly here - it’s near the end of term and I’m too tired to be thinking - why do historians only sound boring when they talk wildly?). One of our measurements is the popular media.

I love this as a theory: I love all theories, especially when I’m overtired - theories are so much easier than proving them. I don’t intend to prove this one. What I intend to do is show you how a totally innocuous series of cartoons from 1951 can feed a very far from innocuous stereotype of US culture.

That stereotype is what we fall back on as ‘normal.’ When I travel in the US my brain takes refuge in the pop culture vision of US food from up to a generation ago. From there I can encounter the richness and diversity of US food culture and deep down somehow reassure myself that it’s perfectly safe.

There’s just one thing I forgot to tell you about this post. It’s #1 of 2. Today you just got the reason for it. Tomorrow you get a dissection of food as it appeared in 1951 in Dennis the menace by the inimitable Hank Ketcham. Be grateful I didn’t choose the food of Superman!

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Outtakes as foodways evidence

Tuesday, June 19th, 2007

I think this speaks for itself. Or Orson Welles speaks for himself.

How long ago was chili first used?

Monday, June 18th, 2007

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Today, an article from the Washington Post that summarises an article from Science about a Smithsonian study. It appears that chili pepper has been in use or over 6,000 years. Not just used, but probably domesticated. This is seriously cool stuff - check it out.

Lime

Sunday, June 17th, 2007

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Lime is a totally classic and totally classy ingredient. Forget margaritas (or give your margaritas to me and I will drink them for you), lime is much more than an element in a popular mixed drink.

Lime is really citrus aurantifolia: - the leaf is brilliant in the food of many countries, especially South East Asian. I don’t think this is the same plant as the European linden (tilia spp) which produces limeflowers.

Lime juice is particularly important in Australian history. The “lime juice tub” was any ship bound for Australia during a certain period, named after the use of lime juice against scurvy in the British Navy.

Apart from being good against scurvy, and in mixed drinks, a squeeze of lime juice is a useful addition to a lot of dishes, both sweet and savoury.

[tags]food history, lime, ingredients[\tags]

About Food History

A few herbs, a pinch of spice and foods of the past create your perfect foodie recipe at Food History. Expand your palate with everything from hot scones to hot websites without leaving your computer. At Food History there's a gourmet’s delight of food, health, history, and an amazing side of mushrooms. From holiday food customs to any number of fabulous recipes, you can find out anything and everything about your favorite tasty tidbits.

Food History Author(s)
    » Gillian-Polack

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