Food History

We’ve seen these cookbooks before and we might visit them again. There’s a lot of interesting things to be found in both of them.

The first book was published as part of the quest for women’s rights and the second in the early days of US independence. Both help us understand how ideas integrate with food in a society. Also, they give us more recipes – how much better can it get? (more…)

Much of my life seems to be about menus at the moment. Mostly this is because I’m at that stage in researching the Conflux banquet, but it’s also because my friends and I all have various dietary restrictions and getting together for a meal requires just a little menu consideration if we’re all to enjoy ourselves.

Given that menus are on my mind, I have decided it’s time to inflict them on yours. Besides, there are so many books I want you to meet, and so little time!

Today’s book is John Lane’s A Taste of the Past. Its subtitle is Menus from Lavish luncheons, royal weddings, indulgent dinners and history’s greatest banquets. (more…)

(I’m claiming quite a large area as my hometown. Deal with it.)

Sharyn Lilley here again, taking a break from Eneit Press, to annoy … er, that would be share, more recipes and history from ‘my home town’ with Gillian’s readers. I grew up in North East Victoria, nicely situated between the Rutherglen wineries, The King Valley winery and gourmet food region, the Murray River, and the High Country. I claim them all as ‘home’. The Aurealis Awards short-list has been posted here. Huge congratulations to those who have made the short list, there has been some fantastic speculative fiction put out this year. For those who didn’t make it through I’m sharing one of my favourite comfort food recipes. Normally this would mean chocolate, today’s recipe, however, is pumpkin soup. And for pumpkin soup, you need honey! (more…)

I feel full of Australian slang today. This means you need biccies and scones. Lots of them. And it means I need to behave and not fill your minds with Strine (Aussie dialect, full of amazingly strange terms and not always terribly respectful). The simplest way to avoid talking about how tired are my plates of meat (feet and summertime, you know, don’t always mix) is to find you US recipes.

These ones are from the charming Miss Leslie (Directions for Cookery, in its various branches, 10th edition) and demonstrate to us that scones were known in the US as ‘tea biscuits’ in 1840. (more…)

This is one of my special posts for January. Flick has written to tell us how foodways wove into her research for the first volume of the Janna Mysteries. She has also kindly donated a copy of the new edition, which has both the first and second volume. In February we might have a competition or a draw or something to find the new owner of this terrific volume.

I was her historical consultant and it is such a joy to work with a good writer who listens so carefully. I adore getting a new draft of her latest Janna book in the mail. I get to comment on Flick’s manuscripts and explain why this won’t work or that won’t work historically, then Flick goes back and sorts out how she can improve the history without talking away from the story or the characters. Often she finds a way of improving everything at once.

This post gives you an insight into how she works and how a bit of foodways can really make a difference to a novel.

“A difficulty arose while I was writing Rue for Repentance, Book 2 of my medieval crime series for teenagers titled The Janna Mysteries. In this novel, Janna is on the run and hides out in a forest. How is she to survive?

This is an example of how my writing angels ‘look after me’ when I most need information. One thing I used to do (until I discovered it was illegal!) was to pick wildflowers on my walks during my research trips in England. I’d been tramping the downs & forest all morning and, tired, hungry and thirsty, I lobbed into one of those delightful English pubs for lunch and a refreshing ale. While I was waiting, I pulled out my wilting flowers and whatnots, and my reference guide to wildflowers in the UK, and set about trying to find out what they were (and if anything was edible!)

The chef wandered out and gave me what for (that’s when I discovered that picking stuff is illegal.) When I explained it wasn’t just wanton destruction and that I had a good reason for it, he darted back to his kitchen and then presented me with a wonderful publication that was the answer to all my prayers and my problems. It’s a Collins gem called Food for Free, subtitled ‘a fantastic feast of plants and folklore’ and it’s written by Richard Mabey.

It’s divided into four sections (after an introduction): plants & trees; fungi; seaweeds and shellfish. A handy calendar at the beginning of the book lists what’s available in which months, while a list of recipes at the end promises such delights as dandelion leaf salad, elderflower fritters or cordial; fried puffball steaks, sloe gin, nettle haggis … and the list goes on.

I discovered that young hawthorn leaves are commonly referred to as ‘bread and cheese’, being such a staple in the country, while stinging nettles can be made into a soup or pureed as well as being mixed with bacon and oatmeal for a haggis. The elder is another bountiful plant with medicinal as well as culinary qualities. Elderflowers ‘taste as frothy as a glass of icecream soda’ eaten straight from the tree, and the berries are used in pies and jellies.

There are also little historical nuggets of info; apparently the seeds of ‘fat hen’ formed part of the last ritual gruel fed to the 2,4000 year old ‘Tolland Man’ whose perfectly preserved corpse was recovered from a bog in Jutland, Denmark in 1950. The leaves of fat hen can be eaten raw or cooked like spinach.

The section on fungi is very detailed, with clear instructions for picking and preparation, and also for telling the difference between the edible and poisonous. (DId you know that there are 3000 species of large-bodied fungi growing in the UK and only about 20 are seriously poisonous?)

As Janna was nowhere near the sea, I didn’t have to address seaweeds (YUK!) or shellfish (YUM!) but there was plenty in the first two sections to keep her alive in the forest for a very long time.
(What a great book to take on a camping trip in England!) ”

Felicity Pulman

PS from Gillian - the picture above ought to link to where you can buy it, since not all of you are near bookshops that sell Australian books.

PPS from Gillian. More about me and historical fiction here (but only sometimes). More about books here (all the time!). The New Year makes me feel just exceptionally helpful.

This is another set of biscuit recipes where the title says it all. I might come back to this book again one day, though, and talk about it a bit more. I’ll also talk about Southernness, perhaps, one day.

CONFEDERATE RECEIPT BOOK. (more…)

Today’s recipes come from a book with such a long title that I rather think it introduces itself.

THE COMPLETE CONFECTIONER, PASTRY-COOK. AND BAKER.
PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING CONFECTIONARY AND PASTRY, AND FOR BAKING;
WITH UPWARDS OF FIVE HUNDRED RECEIPTS:
CONSISTING OF DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL SORTS OF PRESERVES,
SUGAR-BOILING, COMFITS, LOZENGES, ORNAMENTAL CAKES, ICES LIQUEURS, WATERS, GUM-PASTE ORNAMENTS SYRUPS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, COMPOTES, BREAD-BAKING, ARTIFICIAL YEASTS, FANCY BISCUITS, CAKES, ROLLS, MUFFINS, TARTS, PIES, &c. &c.
WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS, BY PARKINSON,
Practical Confectioner, Chestnut Street.
PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 1864. (more…)

Some recipes that suit the wintry among us and the summery are recipes for biscuits and scones. For the next few days I think I shall give you some US recipes for these comestibles, just to expand our biscuit and scone recipes and to let the rest of the world labour over conversions for a change. (more…)

(I’m claiming quite a large area as my hometown. Deal with it.)

I’m Sharyn Lilley, author, editor and now small press publisher with Eneit Press. Life’s been a little stressful lately, and Gillian suggested I do something to take a break from the world. This meant I decided to write a few articles to share some recipes and the history of my home with her readers here. I grew up in North East Victoria, nicely situated between the Rutherglen wineries, The King Valley winery and gourmet food region, the Murray River, and the High Country. I was a summer baby, birthday parties by the shores of Lake Hume were a popular choice. So obviously my first recipe is going to be an ice-cream cake. (more…)

Am I a food snob, or an academic, or a kook? These are three of the categories described in the introduction to David Kamp and Marion Rosenfeld’s The Food Snob’s Dictionary. It’s pretty obvious that I’m of the academic inclination, but I will happily lay claim to being a variety of kook. In fact, ‘kooky cook’ isn’t half bad as a moniker.

Given this book isn’t about food history, and it isn’t a cook book why am I posting about it? (more…)

I’m still thinking of biscuits and scones. This is largely because it’s so very hot here. Too hot to bake, but not too hot to dream of a day when baking is possible.

Today’s imaginary afternoon tea is from GOOD HOUSEKEEPING’S Menus, Recipes, and Household Discoveries, 1922, one of my many, many sources for the Prohibition Banquet. The first progress report for Conflux 5 is about to come out and with it, the announcement about the Prohibition Banquet. Treasure your advance knowledge – the geekworld is about to catch up!

Aunt Malindy’s Buttermilk Biscuit (more…)

Many cookbooks and household guides from the 19th century contain instructions for how to spot adulterated food or explanations of why problems can’t always be spotted. One of the driving forces behind certain cookbooks was protection against dangerous food practices. This is a statement by a manufacturer, explaining why their products were reliable and safe. It also shows us why US legislation on the subject was so very important (and one way in which was used). (more…)

Today a friend gave me a late Christmas present of a type of Polish cake I’ve not had in years. It’s a very fine cake, with an even grain and many spices. It has ground almonds and walnuts, but not enough honey to make it a honey cake. It sits on a bed of wafer. She always makes it this time of year and gives it to friends.

This is a lovely foodway and I’d really like to know more of it. I’d especially like some cake recipes to share with you, of course. Alas, this isn’t my area and (despite my surname) I don’t read Polish. Can anyone help?

Everyone I know seems to be cooking up a storm for holiday guests. In a couple of days holidays will be over for most people. In the meantime, you might want a few biscuit and scone recipes. Handy for the collection I’m making on this blog, and handy for your store cupboard.

There’s always a guest who comes just after the holidays and who deserves home made biscuits. These ones are particularly sound in a political sense*. They may delight the heart of your after-holiday visitor or they may lure them to great wrath (”Women? Voting? Preposterous!!”) in which case you get to finish the plate in comfort after they’ve stormed off in high dudgeon.

Cookies

One cupful sour rich cream, one cupful white sugar, one-half teaspoonful soda, flour enough for a soft dough-only enough to roll out easily; salt and nutmeg if desired.
MRS. SARA T. L. ROBINSON.

Cream Cookies

Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, one-half cupful of sour cream, one level teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water, enough flour to roll out as soft as possible.
EMILY S. BOUTON.

Fruit Cookies

One and one-half cupfuls sugar, one-half cupful butter, five tablespoonfuls milk, one teaspoonful soda, spice of all kinds, one cupful currants or raisins, chopped, flour to roll out thin.
MRS. L. W. JONES.

Lep Cookies

One gallon molasses, two pounds lard, one pound citron, one teacupful each of cinnamon and spice, one-half teacupful cloves, four or six nutmegs, two pounds picked nuts (hickory or pecans), flour to make a stiff dough; roll thin, and bake quickly; ice, and dry well before putting away.
MRS. JESSIE F. A. BANKS.

Molasses Cookies

Put into a large coffee-cup one teaspoonful of soda, two tablespoonfuls of hot water and three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Fill the cup with molasses, add a little ginger if liked. Two cups are enough for one baking. Mix soft and bake quickly.
LOUISA G. ALDRICH.

Molasses Cookies

One egg, one cup molasses, one-half cup of sugar, one teaspoonful each of salt, soda and ginger; flour enough to roll easily. This receipt calls for neither milk or shortening, and makes very nice cookies. Bake in quick oven.
MRS. ELLIE A. HILL.

New Bedford Cookies

Two cups of sugar, one cup of sour milk with half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it, one cup of butter. Flour to roll not too stiff, and bake quickly.
EMILY A. FIFIELD.

Spiced Cookies

One cup of sugar, two cups of molasses, two-thirds of a cup of butter, one cup of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one small teaspoonful of cloves, and one small teaspoonful of cinnamon, two eggs, one-half a nutmeg, and five cups of flour.
LOUISA G. ALDRICH.

Sugar Cookies

One egg, one cup of sugar, half a cup (scant) of butter, half a cup of milk, nutmeg to taste, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda. Make soft dough as can be handled; roll thin and bake in quick oven.
MRS. ELLIE A. HILL.

Sugar Cookies

Two eggs, one cup sugar, two thirds cup of butter and lard, one teaspoonful cream-tartar, one scant teaspoonful soda, two tablespoonfuls cold water. Flavor with lemon; flour to roll. Roll thin. Bake in quick oven.
MRS. M. A. EVERETT.

*They come from the 2nd edition of The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, 1890.

I’m starting the New Year off nicely, thanks to all of you and everyone who has linked to me or comented on my posts. I’m in the top hundred Aussie blogs again. Thank you all.

Expect a real post soon. I just want to bask for a moment. Not in the top hundred thing, but in the 35 degree celsius heat. Oh, for a cool change!