Food History

You know those sorrowful stories of solitary orphans? Well, I feel in the mood for them. If I had it to hand I would be reading The Little Princess, right now and weeping into a copious lace handkerchief. (The moustache cup represents dastardly villains today, just in case you prefer your sorrowful tale with a splash of of the dastard.)

What I have to hand is something from 1798 you made passing acquaintance with over the festive season.

I thought you might enjoy the introduction (I adore the introductions of cookbooks, just in case you hadn’t noticed) where Amelia Simmons balances pathos and cooking expertise in a curious fashion. The title reinforces the claim of competency, rather than appealing for sympathy, which perhaps explains its length: American Cookery, or The Art of Dressing Viands, Fish, Poultry, and Vegetables, and the Best Modes of Making Pastes, Puffs, Pies, Tarts, Puddings, Custards and Preserves, and All Kinds of Cakes, from the Imperial Plumb to Plain Cake. Adapted to the country, and all grades of life.

“PREFACE.

AS this treatise is calculated for the improvement of the rising generation of Females in America, the Lady of fashion and fortune will not be displeased, if many hints are suggested for the more general and universal knowledge of those females in this country, who by the loss of their parents, or other unfortunate circumstances, are reduced to the necessity of going into families in the line of domestics, or taking refuge with their friends or relations, and doing those things which are really essential to the perfecting them as good wives, and useful members of society. The orphan, tho’ left to the care of virtuous guardians, will find it essentially necessary to have an opinion and determination of her own. The world, and the fashion thereof, is so variable, that old people cannot accomodate themselves to the various changes and fashions which daily occur; they will adhere to the fashion to their day and will not surrender their attachments to the good old way-while the young and the gay, bend and conform readily to the taste of the times, and fancy of the hour. By having an opinion and determination, I would not be understood to mean an obstinate perseverance in trifles, which borders on obstinacy-by no means, but only an adherence to those rules and maxims which have stood the test of ages, and will forever establish the female character, a virtuous character-altho’ they conform to the ruling taste of the age in cookery, dress, language, manners, &c.

It must ever remain a check upon the poor solitary orphan, that while those females who have parents, or brothers, or riches, to defend their indiscretions, that the orphan must depend solely upon character. How immensely important, therefore, that every action, every word, every thought, be regulated by the strictest purity, and that every movement meet the approbation of the good and wife.

The candor of the American Ladies is solicitously intreated by the Authoress, as she is circumscribed in her knowledge, this being original work in this country. Should any future editions appear, she hopes to render it more valuable.”