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“Confectionary is the poetry of epicurism”

by Gillian Polack

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Alas, I’m still ill. In the absence of my brain, I’m giving you the preface to a cookbook. I had marked it down as one that deserved some commentary, but I don’t know if I can give you that tonight. (Isn’t it ironic that it’s a gastric virus that has made me so very exhausted?)

The book is The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook and Baker by Parkinson, 1864. The title is much longer than that, to be honest. I love nineteenth century titles that try to edge over into a second page.

This is the preface to the American Edition. One day I need to compare other prefaces from other editions and find out just what the difference is. Not tonight, though. Tonight you get the writer’s comments, unadorned. Since lack of adornment includes such phrases as “Confectionary is the poetry of epicurism” which means my illness is not going to mean you suffer unduly.

“Almost every foreigner who visits this country remarks with astonishment the almost universal neglect of that art upon which, more than any thing else, depends the health and comfort of a people; and by many scientific men have most of the prevalent diseases of this country, especially the dyspepsia, been ascribed to the hurried, crude and unwholesome manner in which our food is prepared; of latter years, more attention has been paid to cooking; but the handmaiden of that parent art, confectionary, is still neglected and unknown, yet it is of little less importance than the graver branch referred to. Confectionary is the poetry of epicurism it throws over the heavy enjoyments of the table the relief of a milder indulgence, and dispenses the delights of a lighter and more harmless gratification of the appetite. The dessert, properly prepared, contributes equally to health and comfort; but “got up” as confectionary too often is, it is not only distasteful to a correct palate, but is deleterious and often actually poisonous.

In introducing to the American public the modes by which the table of hospitality may be enriched and adorned, we have consulted every authority, French or English, within our reach; but the basis of our little work is to be found in Read’s Confectioner, a late London publication.

Having for many years been connected with the oldest, most extensive and successful confectionary establishment in the country, we have been enabled to make from our own experience many important modifications and to introduce many additional receipts, particularly in relation to the various articles of luxury which the bounty of our soil and climate render almost exclusively American.

The volume has thus been increased in size, and we trust improved in value.

Trusting that our efforts to advance the popular knowledge of the art which has for many years engaged our attention, may meet with approbation, we present the result of our labours to a candid and indulgent public.

Chestnut Street,
Philadelphia.”

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One Response to ““Confectionary is the poetry of epicurism””

  1. Batya Says:

    We all have our little mental “connections,” and for me “Confectioneries” is rather something forbidden. We weren’t allowed them as kids, and I was rather strict with my own. My daughter is trying to “even things out.”

    Feel better!!

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    » Gillian-Polack

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