Food History

Horseradish (cochlearia armoracia or armorsacia lapathifolia) is a fabulously pungent root. It really intrigues me that the sixteenth century German use of this root was very similar to the modern Askenazi Jewish use (as a vinegared relish with meats and fish), especially given that the roots of Yiddish are mostly the German of that period.

Eat the root grated very finely with vinegar and perhaps a bit of beetroot. The easy way to make chrain (the relish) is with the liquid from a tin of beetroot and lots of grated horseradish. I guess there is a proper way to make it, but I always do it the easy way. I’m told it goes well with gefilte fish - I know it goes magically with most roasts and most vegetables. it’s also good for clearing the sinuses.

When I was exploring the horseradish web I found a commercial site with rather a good description of making kosher chrain for Passover. It’s worth reading round the ads for the guts of it: kashruth isn’t nearly as complicated as it looks, and neither is horseradish.

The history of horseradish is complicated, however. I’ve seen mentions of it quoted by Pliny and by the Deplhic Oracle, but no-one ever gives the exact source, so I can’t check it out.

In recent centuries horseradish has become the bitter herb of choice for many Passover seders, replacing classics such as rue. This I can check out, and I do, every year at Passover.