Jean-Georges Vongerichten, chef at Restaurant Lafayette in New York, offers a menu with a special section devoted to dishes intensified with these flavorful oils and perfumed broths. His new book, Simple Cuisine (Simon and Schuster, New York, 1990), details these techniques. “All of the recipes can be completed in half an hour,” says Vongerichten. “They don’t require that you spend 20 hours making a veal stock.”
Still, many contemporary chefs take a hard line on stocks. “There are some things you can’t take shortcuts on,” says Emeril Lagasse of Emeril’s in New Orleans. “We respect the stockpot. Good stocks are the basis for good sauce..”
Lagasse’s new restaurant uses 50-60 gallons of stock a day. Chicken, fish, wild mushroom and asparagus are among the varieties. His stocks find their way into vinaigrettes and are blended into roasted-vegetable sauces.
Another cooked chunky sauce, chutney, is a favorite with Lagasse. “Chutneys have a very Southern feel to them – very powerful in flavor. I like to pair chutneys with…